Museum-Hopping in the Berkshires

Arts, Culture, Nature and Culinary Excellence Abound in North Adams, Massachusetts

I am a great fan of mini-vacations: two or three days away can be wonderfully restorative. And one doesn’t have to go far, as a recent three-day trip to the Berkshires in Western Massachusetts proved. (We live in the Western White Mountains of New Hampshire.)

Three days was just enough time to explore a great town (North Adams, Mass.), visit three terrific museums, and have two excellent dinners. A planned “dude” hike on Mt. Greylock was derailed by car trouble, but otherwise everything went off without a hitch.

Museums

The Berkshires are heaven for museum-lovers like us. We saw three beauties on this trip.

Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MassMoCA), North Adams: Opened in 1999, MassMoCA is one of the nation’s largest centers for contemporary visual and performing arts. The museum is housed in a complex of renovated industrial warehouses on the river, providing great space for showing a rotating collection of large-scale pieces of art. We particularly enjoyed the retrospective of wall-sized paintings by Sol LeWitt (see photo above); and the “Gravity is a Force to Be Reckoned With” display.

The Mount, Lenox: The Mount was the summer “cottage” of author Edith Wharton, who modeled her house, gardens and lifestyle after country homes found in Italy and France. She lived on the estate for several years around the turn of the century, before moving to Paris in 1911 upon the dissolution of her marriage.

After a series of different owners, the house fell into disrepair but was purchased in 1980 by the Edith Wharton Restoration to preserve and restore The Mount as a tribute to Mrs. Wharton and to establish The Mount as a cultural and literary center. The estate has been beautifully restored, although there is more to do. (Your admission fees and anything you spend in the wonderful bookstore go to support the continued restoration.)

The guided tour of The Mount provides an entertaining look and rich insight into this remarkable woman and great literary talent. A series of rooms – labeled “Dramatic License 1,” Dramatic License 2,” and so on – show how Mrs. Wharton’s works have been interpreted in films, plays and popular culture.

This is the *best* tour of its type that I have taken in the US. Our young guide, Cecily, was terrific: a local resident, she was drawn to Mrs. Wharton and is in her third year as a guide. Don’t miss this place if you are visiting the area.

The Sterling & Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown: The Clark Institute is surrounded by 140 acres of lawns, meadows and walking trails, which are open to the public. From various places on the property, you can see Williamstown and its rolling hills and (to the north) the Green Mountains of Vermont. The permanent collection includes European (1400-1800), Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art, including works by Degas, Renoir, Monet, Lautrec and Manet; as well as American works of art by Sargent, Homer, Cassatt, Remington, and others.

Through September 12, 2010, the Clark is showing a special exhibition, “Picasso Looks at Degas,” which shows how Degas influenced Picasso’s work. It’s a rare opportunity to see many works of art from both artists, from multiple sources including the museum’s permanent collection; the Museo de Picasso in Barcelona, Spain (which collaborated in organizing the exhibit); and private collections. Artworks are displayed side by side, clearly showing the influences. Fascinating and not to be missed for art-lovers!

Restaurants

Gramercy Bistro, North Adams: Recently relocated to the MassMoCA complex, this restaurant offers wonderfully hand-crafted and engagingly presented food made from local ingredients. There’s a short but thoughtfully assembled wine list with reasonably priced wines by the glass, including a Celestin Blondeau sauvignon blanc (France) that was just terrific. Service was pleasant but a bit uneven the night that we were there. The restaurant is housed in a high-ceiling room with white tablecloths and a European vibe. We paid $100 for two for entrees, appetizers, drinks, and coffee. Reservations are strongly recommended. Fussy Diner Rating: Two Forks Up.

Mezze, Williamstown: This is a simply wonderful restaurant located in a new, farmhouse-like building on a hill. The farm-to-table concept is imaginatively and flawlessly executed here. There is a short but terrific wine list, with unusual selections. The service is unobtrusive, delivered by knowledgeable and well-trained waiters: a "you-guys"-free zone. This was the best restaurant meal that we have had in a long time. We paid $125.00 for two, for entrees, appetizers, drinks and a shared plate of local cheeses for dessert. Reservations are a must. Fussy Diner Rating: Two Forks Up – and a Fussy Diner Top Pick.

The Porches Inn

We made North Adams our home base, staying at the Porches Inn. The inn has deservedly been written up in many travel publications, for its vision, architecture, concept and guest experience. The inn was part of the real estate plan for the nearby MassMoCA complex, which is within easy walking distance.

The project converted a series of derelict, turn-of-the-century wooden row houses into an elegant and unusual inn. The 50 rooms – standard, suite and extended-stay options – combine history with modern convenience. The rooms are individually furnished in “granny chic” with whimsical period touches. For example: our room had a display of Depression-era plates on the wall. There’s free wi-fi throughout; a fantastic continental breakfast; a small bar (open 3 to 10 PM daily in the living room); comfortable common areas; a swimming pool, hot tub, sauna and fitness room; an outdoor fire pit; hiking trails behind the inn; and many more amenities.

The inn is staffed 24 hours a day, mostly by young people. The inn promises “attitude-free” service and it certainly delivers on this – the service was flawless and unobtrusive. (Porches could open a school for innkeepers and B&B owners who aspire to perfect service.)

We paid $180 plus tax for a deluxe standard room (with a king bed but no porch). The room was spacious, with a spectacular all-white bathroom with huge walk-in shower, a claw-footed tub and a huge marble sink.

Fussy Diner Rating: Two Forks Up – and a Fussy Diner Top Pick.

North Adams: Hot Times in the Summer

If you have more time, check out the many art galleries and related events in downtown North Adams. Pick up a Down Street Art pamphlet (available everywhere), or get oriented by taking a Trolley Tour. And take a drive up Mt. Greylock, or take a hike (there are many trails for people of various levels of ability). Williamstown is also very charming, and 15 minutes up the road.

North Adams and this corner of the Berkshires are gems.