Elixir Restaurant, White River Junction, Vermont: Cosmopolitan Food, Laid-Back Ambiance

“Approachable” is the Word for this North Country Gem

You know you’re in for a special dining experience when you are greeted and seated by one of the co-owners of the restaurant.

So began our adventure at Elixir Restaurant & Lounge, a simply terrific restaurant located in the renovated Freight House in White River Junction, Vermont. And it just got better from there.

Seasoned restaurateurs Skip Symanski and Jane Carrier have created a dining experience that blends upscale food with the kind of welcoming, approachable environment one finds in a neighborhood place.

And in fact, this is a neighborhood place: Skip estimates that 90% of his customers are locals, and he knows most if not all of them by name. The word-of-mouth on this three-year-old place is such that it no longer advertises. We know all this because the ever-personable Skip stopped by our table and answered our endless “newbie” questions about the restaurant.

The brick-walled restaurant has a New-York-City-edge-meets-Vermont-charm feel. The high-ceilinged rooms contain about 15 tables, with comfortable modern wooden chairs and bistro-type dining tables. There’s a separate room with a table for larger parties, and a comfortable couch area for waiting or having drinks if you are lucky enough to snag it. A curved bar with high stools curves around the front corner of the main room. 

Perhaps because of the high, baffled ceilings, the restaurant is both buzzingly energetic and intimate at the same time. Amazingly, we couldn’t overhear anyone at nearby tables. Quite a design feat.

The menu is short, with daily specials that are definitely worth trying. I started with a salad made of delicate local greens topped with local goat cheese, slivered almonds and an amazing pomegranate vinaigrette. My husband splurged on the truffled fries, which were accompanied by a spicy-creamy dipping sauce and were plenty for two people. Worth every calorie.

My entrée - short ribs – was one of the specials, and it was simply transcendent. A thick square of ribs was melt-in-your-mouth perfection, served on a bed of homemade spätzel and topped with local fiddlehead ferns in a light, vinegary brown sauce. Heaven on a plate.  This was quite possibly the best short ribs I have ever had.

My husband had one of the popular items from the regular menu: chicken thighs dusted with smoked paprika, served over a creamy roasted tomato polenta with a cilantro chimichurri sauce and sweet corn puree with a touch of lemon. This dish was an explosion of colors with an “undefinable” rich taste. My husband pronounced it not something he would eat every time, but a unique dish worth ordering again.

Elixir specializes in creative cocktails and has an imaginative international wine list with

many wines available by the glass. Prices are surprisingly reasonable – including wines by the glass (around $6). With most other wine-oriented restaurants pressing the $8-10 level for glasses of wine, this pricing strategy allows wine lovers to enjoy themselves and try different wines without going broke. I had the wine special of the night: a Sincerité Pinot Noir from France ($6), which was light and just what I needed. There is also a short but serviceable beer list, with Corona (my husband’s favorite).

Chef Adrian Baldwin worked in Maine and the Rockies before coming to Vermont's Upper Valley area. He has a deft and unforced hand, and creates lively, memorable dishes using mostly locally sourced ingredients. We were amazed to learn that a staff of only two people runs the kitchen. Everything came out on time and was attractively plated. Skip explained that “they are serious foodies who live for food.”

Service was both crisp and warm, delivered by knowledgeable and friendly young women. We watched as one server patiently helped some regulars with a wine selection, including bringing them tastes to help them make their selection. Our server Ira was from the Ukraine, and clearly enjoyed her work.

We wished we had saved room for the desserts ($6), which included a tempting Pear Martini made with a sweet vermouth poached pear and a lemon-virgin olive oil ice cream. Next time.

Although we didn’t get to see the train roll by outside our window seat, we enjoyed overlooking the freight yard – one of the main attractions in this wonderful historical town – and dreaming about taking the train south to New York City.

But why?  We had everything right there in Elixir:  great food, a great vibe, great wine and great people-watching.

We paid $84 (including tax) for two appetizers, two entrees, two rounds of drinks, and two double-espressos. Such a deal.  We’ll be back soon –  well worth the 75-mile round-trip.

As we left, the busy bartender looked up from his work long enough to thank us for coming. That’s the kind of place Elixir is.

Elixir Restaurant & Lounge is open for dinner Tuesday – Saturday, from 5 PM to 10:30 PM.  The inviting bar opens at 4 PM. Reservations recommended for dinner. (Reminder: it's always good to check hours on restaurant Web sites before venturing out.)

The Fussy Diner's verdict: Two Forks Up – and a bonus toot on the train whistle for Elixir.